Coffee evolution: ensuring the sustainability of coffee farms through alternative species
The coffee industry as we know it hinges on the successful production and trade of two main
species of coffee — Coffea arabica (Arabica) and Coffea canephora (robusta). With coffee
farms around the world coming under threat, this article looks at what solutions lesser-known
species have to offer.
In the global coffee market, Arabica and robusta coffee account for at least 99 percent of traded
coffee, leaving an almost negligible contribution from other species. So far 130 species of coffee
have been discovered, and in the face of a warmer planet, unpredictable weather patterns,
pests and disease attacks, sustaining supply and viability of farms on just two species is a big
bet. To add to this, research shows that coffee production will be severely impacted by climate
change across this century.
With this background, looking to lesser-known species of coffee that have the innate ability to
combat the challenges associated with growing Arabica and robusta coffee has become a
necessity. Various farmers, companies and researchers have been experimenting with growing,
processing and brewing these alternative species, nonetheless, everyday coffee drinkers are
still a long way from being able to enjoy them.
At South India Coffee Company (SICC), we have been researching and experimenting with
low-intervention, climate-resilient species that will be suitable to grow in Peninsular India,
leading to improved economic and environmental sustainability.
To celebrate new flavours and species, during the World Coffee Conference held in Bengaluru
in September 2023, we were part of the workshop ‘Sipping Sustainability: Exploring Climate
Resilient Coffee Species’. This conference was organised in collaboration by International
Coffee Organisation and the Coffee Board of India.
The aim of the workshop was to engage with industry leaders and pioneers who are researching
and creating markets for alternative species, and support producers to think beyond traditional
species and support their transition towards sustainable coffee.
The panellist for the workshop included Dr. Aaron P Davis, a Senior Research Leader at the
Royal Botanical Gardens, Kew where he leads a team that identifies beneficial traits of crops,
such as resilience to environmental stress, to enhance sustainable food production, climate
change adaptation, and biodiversity and ecosystem conservation. Dr. Davis is known for his
extensive research on wild coffees’ resilience to climate change, and the development of
underutilised coffee crop species.
The second panellist was Matteo Pavoni, a barista and roaster. Pavoni was the winner of the
2022 Italian Barista Champion, and for two years consecutively he has used the Indian excelsa
from Mooleh Manay, SICC’s estate in India, to compete.
The next panellist was Dr. Surya Prakash who has over 30 years of experience in genetic
improvement of coffee and is a former Director of Research of the Coffee Board of India, and
Charles Denison who has 15 years of experience in the agri-commodity industry and is a
licensed Q-Grader. Denison’s work focuses on the specialty agronomy of coffee, post-harvest
processing, research, and in linking producers and consumers. He also owns a farm where he
grows indigenous Coffea racemosa, a species listed as Near Threatened on the IUCN red list.
The final panellist was Akshay Dashrath, co-founder of SICC.
During the workshop each of the panellists spoke about their experience with lesser known
species of coffee — its origin, flavour and attributes. This was followed by a tasting of eleven
species, brewed by Pavoni on a V60. Incredibly, even among the panellists, it was the first time
that these 11 species of coffee were being tasted together. The species that were tasted
included Coffea eugenioides from East Africa, but grown in Colombia, provided by Inmaculada
Coffee Farms and sponsored by Coffee Board of India; SLN 4595 from India, a derivative from a
crossed coffee from SLN11 and Híbrido de Timor provided by Central Coffee Research Institute
and Coffee Board of India; and Coffea racemosa from South Africa grown and donated by
Denison.
The tasting was a journey into new and unexpected flavours – the eugenioides was described
as having a grape syrup flavour, the racemosa was sweet and herbal, and the SLN 4595 with
notes of chocolate and cherry.
Such flavours present exciting possibilities for baristas to explore, and to experiment with
innovative brewing techniques that push the boundaries of what can be expected from coffee.
Talking about the exposure of alternate species, Pavoni said it is a “topic everyone in the
industry is interested about or at least has heard before with more and more context. As for the
international market, I am not sure how big these developments are yet, but we are seeing more
excelsa from roasters around the world, and we often hear about eugenioides, especially in
barista competitions”.
Among the other species of coffee that were tasted was Coffea dewevrei, commonly known as
excelsa. With one sample each from India, supplied by SICC, South Sudan, by The Equatoria
Teak Company, and Uganda furnished by Kyagalanyi Coffee Ltd. via Dr. Davis. There was also
Coffea zanguebariae, known as Ibo coffee, from Mozambique offered by Iolanda Almeida;
Coffea stenophylla from Sierra Leone and Coffea liberica from upper-west Africa provided by
Central Coffee Research Institute and Coffee Board of India; ‘laurina’, a variety of Coffea
arabica grown in Colombia, given by Pavoni; and CxR or Coffea congensis X Coffea canephora
from India supplied by Papakuchi.
Images of various Coffea Species. Top left: A person's showcasing 4 coffea species, top right - person displaying flowering of different coffea species : bottom right: excelsa , bottom left: coffea Racemosa fruit. Image credit SICC.
Growing alternative species may also help farmers tackle a range of threats and ensure they
are better equipped to handle adverse weather conditions. For instance, by growing excelsa,
farmers can reap the benefits of a high-yielding variety that is more resistant to a range of pests.
Having healthier and more resilient farms will further ensure that farmers are economically
sustainable due to a reduction in cost associated with pest control and wages.
Introducing diversity in farming also has a number of ecological benefits like maintaining soil
fertility, enhancing biodiversity and carbon sequestration.
Overall, Darshath said, “the tasting event sparked widespread interest, with a number of coffee
producers acknowledging the need to diversify beyond traditional Arabica and robusta in the
face of climate change. This has led to numerous inquiries about excelsa saplings and even
early trial plantings…. Alternative species offer the prospect of diversifying India's coffee
offerings, potentially creating unique specialty niches and new market opportunities. The journey
towards widespread adoption will require addressing concerns about production and
marketability. However, through collaborative efforts involving consumer education, value chain
development, and robust extension services for farmers, these challenges can be overcome.”
Denison opined, “countries that both produce and consume are going to have a huge advantage
in knowledge, understanding, and integration of the entire coffee process, and India is leading
the way. As a rare-species farmer myself… in this pioneering field, it can often be difficult and
even a lonely journey. But there is now a network of growers experimenting at this level, and by
working together we can all grow coffee for the future.”
Davis commented: “The World Coffee Conference in Bengaluru was an incredible event – it was
a real privilege to be there. The levels of innovation and enthusiasm amongst India growers and
coffee researchers was inspiring, including the work going on around underutilised species –
such as excelsa and Liberica – and new approaches to coffee sustainability. I was also very
much impressed by the Indian specialty coffee scene and the quality and uniqueness of
Indian-grown coffee, which included both traditional and lesser known species.”
Tasting new species of coffee offers consumers, growers and roasters a gateway to make new
discoveries about a beverage that is integral to the lives of so many people, and we feel that
events such as these play a key role in this. At SICC, we are hopeful and excited about the
journey ahead and inspired by the assent of alternative coffee species into the spotlight!
Written by Nicole Pinto and Komal Sable.